Slice of Argentina & Chile

This time I did a three-week tour in Argentina and Chile starting from eerie Buenos Aires on Chrismas eve. The empty streets of South America’s Paris compared to the buzz of normal day present the contrast of the whole Argentina and huge variation it has to offer for a traveler.

From almost abandoned Buenos Aires our group continued to Mendoza which is at the heart of Argentina’s vine country. We visited Nieto Senetiner, Tomero and Alta Vista vineries where we familiarized ourselves to production of different varieties and also some of the products in form of tasting.

From Mendoza we also did a daytrip to Aconcagua National Park where we enjoyed great landscapes by hiking to Aconcagua’s first camp. Hike includes around 17km of distance and more than 600 meters of ascent. Summiting Aconcagua is an 18 day expedition and costs around 4000€. About 60% of the mountaineers reach the summit during the climb season which runs from December to February.

Group at the Confluencia camp.

After Mendoza we headed to San Carlos de Bariloche which is 18 hours bus ride away from hot hot vine region. In Bariloche the weather is totally different – more like Finnish summer with moderate temperatures and occasional rain. Landscapes in Bariloche are absolutely beautiful and the rafting we did on Manso-river near Chilean border was also very scenic.

Although Bariloche advertises itself as part of Patagonia, the real Patagonia starts further south – at least this is how many locals view it. Our first stop during our true Patagonian visit was a small village of El Chalten which probably offers one of the most amazing drives in the world. Cerro Fitzroy in the background compares to most roads. In El Chalten there are couple of hikes that are popular among the visitors. 

Easiest ones are the lookouts just outside the town. Hikes to Cerro Torre (which did not reveal itself to us) and to Cerro Fitzroy are hikes that take most of the day and Cerro Fitzroy also includes a strenuous 1km/400m ascent right before reaching the view.

Torre Fitzroy, Mirador de los Aquilas

Our second stop in Patagonia was El Calafate from where we visited Perito Moreno Glacier which is also a magnificent sight and also quite easily accessible which makes it very popular. Perito Moreno is not the biggest Glacier in southern Patagonian ice-field but it is one of the only ones in the world that is not losing its body.

From El Calafate we continued to Chile and Puerto Natales which was basically just a waypoint on our way to the crown jewel of the region – Torres del Paine National park where we hiked the so-called W-trek. W-trek is usually done in 4 days and 3 nights and covers about 60km depending on lookouts chosen.

Torres del Paine National Park

Argentina and Chile are beautiful and offer something for all kinds of travelers. Cheap they are not, though. Price levels are surprisingly high and fluctuation of the currency might cause surprises in exchange rates. Due to the currency crisis there are also limitations on cash withdrawals and even so they are charged heavily. Also getting a local sim-card to work in Argentina requires registration so just buying prepaid card is not enough. Cell phone coverage is very limited outside bigger cities and WiFi is mostly non-existent to name a few small problems to overcome when traveling here.

Recommended

For activity seekers

•         Aconcagua National Park
•         El Chalten
•         Torres del Paine
•         San Carlos de Bariloche

Restaurants

•         Bodega Estancia Mendoza (for meat lovers – the Grill is GREAT!)
•         Bute, Mendoza
•         La Zorra, El Calafate (fast & good pub food with local beer for change)
•         Al Zaina, El Calafate (try the lamb dishes and have Negrito as an appetizer)
•         Masay Pizza, Puerto Natales (absolutely huge and delicious steak sandwiches are THE thing here)