24.8.2009, Moshi, Tanzania
After 22 hours of travelling we (me and my luggage) made it here to Springlands hotel at Moshi. The place is very nice in African standards. People from all around the world are coming here either to climb or to go on a safari - or do both. Together with the UK and US gyus we were planning on going for a city tour but right now the rain is blocking the activities. The 3g service is at expected level, so I'll try without pics.
25.8.2009, Heading for the Kili
We visited Moshi yesterday and it is a mixed city with hindu/islamic/christian and colonial influencies. It is not a tourist attraction but it very much highligts the lack of certain commodities we in the Europe take for granted. Tomorrow is the time to get to the mountain and see whether I'll reach the top on the morning of 30th. There are no other people in my group so it will be just me and my guide, cook and porters.
Trek schelude with short comments: (corrections to original itinerary in cursive)
26.8.2009, Rongai Gate to Simba Camp
Hiking Time: 3-4 hrs (2h 40min)
Total Distance: 8km
Starting Altitude: 1950m
Final Altitude: 2750m
Habitat: Montane forest
First day of the trek. Start in the morning by 6 hour drive to the north side of the mountain where we started the actual hiking part going through some pine forest. Arriving to Simba camp around 6 pm, where we had dinner and went almost immediately to bed. Lion/Buffalo/Elephant warning for the night if getting out of the tent.
27.8.2009, Simba Camp to 2nd Cave camp
Hiking Time: 3-5 hrs (3h 15min)
Total Distance: 7km
Starting Altitude: 2750m
Final Altitude: 3450m
Habitat: Moorland
Wake up in the morning with beautiful sunshine and clear sky which allowed the first views of the Mt. Kilimanjaro. Absolutely great. Yesterday we had decided to change our trek plan to be more straightforward instead of going long distances as the original one suggested. So, after around 3 hours of walking we reached the second caves. Really started to feel the altitude for the first time. Neckpain/headache after we got to the camp forced me to take some painkillers, but nothing major yet. Made also a little acclimatization walk in the evening to speed up the adjustment to the high altitude.
Out of bottled water, so from this point on, Kilimanjaro stream water only.
28.8.2009, 2nd Cave to 3rd Cave
Hiking Time: 4 hrs (2h 15min)
Total Distance: 10km (not so much)
Starting Altitude: 3450m
Final Altitude: 4330m (3900m)
Habitat: Semi-Desert
Morning started with some problems - stomach not functioning as it should. We still decided to go forward, because the situation wasn't too bad. Decided to abandon the walking poles because I felt like those were jamming my shoulders more than actually helping to go forward. Started to feel headache allready during the first hour and as we got to the 3rd cave the pain had gotten quite strong and I also had some fever.
Not so good. Had some painkillers again and then just waited what would happen. Discussion with the guide about the options: 1) Feeling ok in the morning, we go on or 2) feeling sick in the morning, we abort to ascent.
29.8.2009, 3rd Cave to Kibo hut
Hiking Time: 5 hrs (3h)
Total Distance: 8km
Starting Altitude: 4330m (3900m)
Final Altitude: 4700m
Habitat: Alpine desert
In the morning the health situation had improved a bit being in the same level as the morning before. So, we decided to continue with the ascent towards the Kibo hut. Trekking part was quite allright, but right after getting to Kibo hut, the headache hit againg. Nothing new there - once again I hit the backpack for the painkillers (400mg of Ibuprofein if someone is wondering - so, really nothing massive..).
I also met Hein, Fraser, Phil and Simon from the hotel who had ascended using Marangu route. They had succesfully summited last night and were now on their way down. They told that the views were amazing and absolutely worth of all the struggle.
Wake up at 23.30 so that we can start the summit hike around midnight.
30.8.2009, Kibo hut to Summit to Mandara hut
Hiking Time: 10-15 hrs (13h 30min)
Total Distance: 28km (over 30km)
Starting Altitude: 4700m
Final Altitude: 3700m (2750m) (via 5895m)
Habitat: Alpine desert
Start at midnight towards the summit. Problems allready during the first half an hour: totally exhausted, feeling a bit nausea even. Decided to go on to 5000m to see the situation. At the 5000, feeling quite ok again, so we continued to ascent. At 5400m my stomach decided organise some morning gymnastics for me. After that it also felt like my legs were pure lead. I was almost about to give up when Stanley said that it is only ten minutes to the Gillman's point and the crater rim, so I got myself enough fighting spirit to do it. So, there, sitting at the Gillman's point (5685m) around 4 am, Stanley asked the question: Should we try to get to Uhuru? It was about 2 hrs of walking to get there. I was feeling a bit of a headache and physically not the most fresh state, but we decided to go for it. After all - this was what I came here for.
After two hours, we reached the Uhuru peak being the first people there that morning. Had a couple of photos and started our descent right after that. It would have been nice to spend more time to admire the awesome views at the crater (sunrise, glaciers...), but my increasing symptoms of AMS were not worth of risking it. Descent to Kibo hut was kind of fast - thanks to the loose gravel that I cursed on the way up. After the breakfast we decided to descent to Mandara huts allready today so that we would only have a very short hike for the last day.
I must say that if the ascent was demanding because of the altitude, so was the descent because of the constant downhill which made you use your muscles in a totally different way. When you add the sun, the extensive dust and 21km of African path, you end up having the kind of feeling in your feet that you very rarely normally get...
31.8.2009 Descent - Horombo Hut Camp to Marangu Gate to Moshi (Mandara hut to Marangu gate)
Hiking Time: 5-7 hrs (2h 15min)
Total Distance: 18km (9km)
Starting Altitude: 3700m (2750m)
Final Altitude: 1830m
Habitat: Montane forest
Descent and a good night of sleep had done wonders to my headache which was now almost gone as the swelling of my fingers. Very sore legs from yesterday plus couple of excellent blisters on my toes but nothing worse. Only a couple of hours of hike to Marangu gate where I tipped my mountain crew, checked out from the national park and jumped into a car to take me back to the comfort of Springlands hotel.
Flights:
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After 22 hours of travelling we (me and my luggage) made it here to Springlands hotel at Moshi. The place is very nice in African standards. People from all around the world are coming here either to climb or to go on a safari - or do both. Together with the UK and US gyus we were planning on going for a city tour but right now the rain is blocking the activities. The 3g service is at expected level, so I'll try without pics.
25.8.2009, Heading for the Kili
We visited Moshi yesterday and it is a mixed city with hindu/islamic/christian and colonial influencies. It is not a tourist attraction but it very much highligts the lack of certain commodities we in the Europe take for granted. Tomorrow is the time to get to the mountain and see whether I'll reach the top on the morning of 30th. There are no other people in my group so it will be just me and my guide, cook and porters.
Trek schelude with short comments: (corrections to original itinerary in cursive)
26.8.2009, Rongai Gate to Simba Camp
Hiking Time: 3-4 hrs (2h 40min)
Total Distance: 8km
Starting Altitude: 1950m
Final Altitude: 2750m
Habitat: Montane forest
First day of the trek. Start in the morning by 6 hour drive to the north side of the mountain where we started the actual hiking part going through some pine forest. Arriving to Simba camp around 6 pm, where we had dinner and went almost immediately to bed. Lion/Buffalo/Elephant warning for the night if getting out of the tent.
27.8.2009, Simba Camp to 2nd Cave camp
Hiking Time: 3-5 hrs (3h 15min)
Total Distance: 7km
Starting Altitude: 2750m
Final Altitude: 3450m
Habitat: Moorland
Wake up in the morning with beautiful sunshine and clear sky which allowed the first views of the Mt. Kilimanjaro. Absolutely great. Yesterday we had decided to change our trek plan to be more straightforward instead of going long distances as the original one suggested. So, after around 3 hours of walking we reached the second caves. Really started to feel the altitude for the first time. Neckpain/headache after we got to the camp forced me to take some painkillers, but nothing major yet. Made also a little acclimatization walk in the evening to speed up the adjustment to the high altitude.
Out of bottled water, so from this point on, Kilimanjaro stream water only.
28.8.2009, 2nd Cave to 3rd Cave
Hiking Time: 4 hrs (2h 15min)
Total Distance: 10km (not so much)
Starting Altitude: 3450m
Final Altitude: 4330m (3900m)
Habitat: Semi-Desert
Morning started with some problems - stomach not functioning as it should. We still decided to go forward, because the situation wasn't too bad. Decided to abandon the walking poles because I felt like those were jamming my shoulders more than actually helping to go forward. Started to feel headache allready during the first hour and as we got to the 3rd cave the pain had gotten quite strong and I also had some fever.
Not so good. Had some painkillers again and then just waited what would happen. Discussion with the guide about the options: 1) Feeling ok in the morning, we go on or 2) feeling sick in the morning, we abort to ascent.
29.8.2009, 3rd Cave to Kibo hut
Hiking Time: 5 hrs (3h)
Total Distance: 8km
Starting Altitude: 4330m (3900m)
Final Altitude: 4700m
Habitat: Alpine desert
In the morning the health situation had improved a bit being in the same level as the morning before. So, we decided to continue with the ascent towards the Kibo hut. Trekking part was quite allright, but right after getting to Kibo hut, the headache hit againg. Nothing new there - once again I hit the backpack for the painkillers (400mg of Ibuprofein if someone is wondering - so, really nothing massive..).
I also met Hein, Fraser, Phil and Simon from the hotel who had ascended using Marangu route. They had succesfully summited last night and were now on their way down. They told that the views were amazing and absolutely worth of all the struggle.
Wake up at 23.30 so that we can start the summit hike around midnight.
30.8.2009, Kibo hut to Summit to Mandara hut
Hiking Time: 10-15 hrs (13h 30min)
Total Distance: 28km (over 30km)
Starting Altitude: 4700m
Final Altitude: 3700m (2750m) (via 5895m)
Habitat: Alpine desert
Start at midnight towards the summit. Problems allready during the first half an hour: totally exhausted, feeling a bit nausea even. Decided to go on to 5000m to see the situation. At the 5000, feeling quite ok again, so we continued to ascent. At 5400m my stomach decided organise some morning gymnastics for me. After that it also felt like my legs were pure lead. I was almost about to give up when Stanley said that it is only ten minutes to the Gillman's point and the crater rim, so I got myself enough fighting spirit to do it. So, there, sitting at the Gillman's point (5685m) around 4 am, Stanley asked the question: Should we try to get to Uhuru? It was about 2 hrs of walking to get there. I was feeling a bit of a headache and physically not the most fresh state, but we decided to go for it. After all - this was what I came here for.
After two hours, we reached the Uhuru peak being the first people there that morning. Had a couple of photos and started our descent right after that. It would have been nice to spend more time to admire the awesome views at the crater (sunrise, glaciers...), but my increasing symptoms of AMS were not worth of risking it. Descent to Kibo hut was kind of fast - thanks to the loose gravel that I cursed on the way up. After the breakfast we decided to descent to Mandara huts allready today so that we would only have a very short hike for the last day.
I must say that if the ascent was demanding because of the altitude, so was the descent because of the constant downhill which made you use your muscles in a totally different way. When you add the sun, the extensive dust and 21km of African path, you end up having the kind of feeling in your feet that you very rarely normally get...
31.8.2009 Descent - Horombo Hut Camp to Marangu Gate to Moshi (Mandara hut to Marangu gate)
Hiking Time: 5-7 hrs (2h 15min)
Total Distance: 18km (9km)
Starting Altitude: 3700m (2750m)
Final Altitude: 1830m
Habitat: Montane forest
Descent and a good night of sleep had done wonders to my headache which was now almost gone as the swelling of my fingers. Very sore legs from yesterday plus couple of excellent blisters on my toes but nothing worse. Only a couple of hours of hike to Marangu gate where I tipped my mountain crew, checked out from the national park and jumped into a car to take me back to the comfort of Springlands hotel.
Flights:
- HEL-AMS, 23.8.2009, 0645-0815: KL1164
- AMS-JRO, 23.8.2009, 1020-1945: KL0567
- JRO-DAR, 1.9.2009, 2050-2145: KL0571
- DAR-AMS, 1.9.2009, 2255-0700+1: KL0571
- AMS-HEL, 2.9.2009, 1030-1400: KL1167
- My airline: KLM
